This post recounts the twelfth day of my English Channel to the Mediterranean cycle tour in France with Peak Tours in June 2025. Read Day 11: Vaison la Romaine to Sault via Mont Ventoux.

I wondered how I’d perform today, after yesterday’s massive effort climbing Mont Ventoux. The answer was mixed: surprisingly well in the morning but very badly on the final 25 miles to our destination.

The day began with breakfast at tables on the pavement outside our hotel, the Albion. We had to cycle into the centre of Sault to the hotel the others were staying at for the day’s briefing, and then cycle back past the Albion on our way out of town.

We heard the news is that the smaller of the two Peak Tours vans was out of action with a failed clutch. Guides Mick and Karen would spend much of the day trying to get it mended, without success. They then had the massive task of squeezing the contents of the two vans into the larger vehicle, which is usually intended to carry our overnight bags to the day’s destination. (The smaller van is used to carry snacks and drinks for the morning and afternoon ‘brew’ stops, as well as our day bags.) As a result of the breakdown, there would be no supported stops today apart from lunch, and we were given details of cafes that we could use and claim back the costs. Everyone was rightly very understanding, given the outstanding support the Peak Tours guides Mick, Karen and Fernando have given us on this tour.

We had a steady climb for the first 15 miles, which I enjoyed. To be fair, the total ascent over this section was probably less than 1,000 feet, but I was pleased to find that Mont Ventoux hadn’t left any ill effects 24 hours on. We had a great view of the summit as we headed away from Sault. The Giant of Provence truly dominates the region.

We gathered at the cafe in the centre of Banon for a pleasant interlude. It was already very hot, and I was glad to have a seat in the shade. We had one nervous moment when a large lorry attempted a three-point turn right in front of us, coming dangerously close to our bikes. But all was well.

If the 15 miles climb was enjoyable, the even longer descent was pure heaven. Once it ended, we had a climb up to a large reservoir, Retenue de la Laye. I noticed that I could see the road we’d ascended between the trees beside the lake, and videoed others cycling along it.

We passed through a fairly large town, Forcalquier, before missing our turning off a large roundabout, requiring us to go round again. (We didn’t want to join the nearby motorway!) We had a moment of navigational doubt caused by the route notes claiming the lunch stop was earlier than it was, presumably because it was there on a previous tour. As we passed through Oraison, Jim noticed some bikes and correctly assumed these belonged to our faster riders. As very sweaty cyclists we felt a little out of place at the smart L’Epicurien restaurant. Those who’d already eaten commended the food, and the pasta was indeed delicious, but I feared the portion wouldn’t prove enough to fuel the 35 miles remaining. I was right.

We had a few more miles of easy riding before a big climb, through woodland. We were all very hot by the time we reached the summit, and took an enjoyable breather under the shade of some fine trees, seen above.

We stopped again soon after to admire a field of lavender, which came to an abrupt halt, giving way to other crops. We also admired this old Ciitroën car that tooted as it passed us.

We agreed to take a break in Valensole, but service at the cafe was chaotic. We enjoyed the respite, even though we were conscious we still had another 25 miles to our destination. Little did I realise that this would be one of my hardest sessions of the entire tour, almost certainly because I hadn’t eaten enough.

There was one section of road that looked as if it was descending, but my legs and my Garmin confirmed it was actually an incline. The day’s route profile above explains why I struggled: an eight mile climb starting at around the 57 mile point that got progressively steeper. My low point came in Riez, where I stopped by the side of the road and ate an energy bar. I knew it would take time to feel the benefit, which came after I reached the summit of the climb. Now came the reward: a view of Moustiers Sainte-Marie, a village at the western entrance to the Verdon gorge which sits on terraces 300 feet up a limestone cliff. The photo below gives a glimpse of this extraordinary place.

A little later, Wendy, Jim and I clambered down to take photos of the Lac de Sainte-Croix, which we’d be cycling close to on our way to our destination at Les Salles-sur-Verdon.

The lake is a reservoir created in the 1970s by damming the Verdon river, which we crossed on long bridge over the Verdon river close to the entrance to the gorge.

We were nearly home, but for a rather unpleasant busy road. One driver spent so long on the left side of the road overtaking a number of us that suggested the French do drive on the left.

We were staying at the Hôtel L’Ermitage, a nice modern hotel. It was a pleasure to have a drink and then dinner here after a tough afternoon. The evening was made even better by Monica and Donal rejoining the tour, after Donal had spent a few days getting treatment. It was lovely to see them again. They will be cycling with us for the final two days of the tour.

Read Day 13: Les Salles-sur-Verdon to Castellane.

The day’s stats

77.38 miles, 4,679 feet climbing, 5 hours 35 mins cycling, average speed unknown but likely around 13.6mph.

The day’s highlights video