This post recounts the sixth day of my English Channel to the Mediterranean cycle tour in France with Peak Tours in June 2025. Read Day 5: Argenton-sur-Creuse to Aubusson.

I’d been looking forward to today since studying the Channel to the Med route long before the holiday. I first visited the Auvergne in 1976 on a school skiing trip to La Bourboule, just four miles from today’s destination, Le Mont-Dore. I liked the idea of saying I’d cycled to the region from the English Channel.

The day started with breakfast at the hotel in Aubusson. I’d had sinking feeling about this last night, after we’d been asked to choose items on a breakfast menu. I ticked two baguettes as I suspected they’d not be large. I was right. There was no muesli or granola option, which concerned me as these really fuel me on long rides. But the food I had seemed filling, so I hoped it would be enough.

On the first, gradual hill I felt lethargic. It was easy to blame the breakfast, but looking back another poor night’s sleep was more likely to be the culprit, given this was the start of the day, and the gradient was hardly punishing, as the gradient profile above shows. Whatever the reason, I didn’t enjoy this early session, despite the pretty, forested route, so typical of the first half of the tour. But I felt better after the morning brew stop at Monteillaud, where another dog showed a keen interest in us.

Giat was one of the few towns we passed through today. As we left, we passed through another route barrée road closure. The final section towards lunch at Verneugheol was the first decent fast stretch of the day so far. The meal was a buffet at a popular bar and restaurant, Le 3 Tourtes. Outside, a female school teacher was loudly keeping her class in check as they had their meal at an outside table. I enjoyed our lunch, although I was concerned about the flies landing on the food.

I had more energy after lunch, which was just as well as we had the first really big climb of the holiday at the end of the day, along with several smaller ascents. I suffered my only puncture of the whole tour, but happily, the tubeless sealant worked its magic, and I was on my way without having to do anything. I enjoyed this stage, riding in a group at the back with guide Mick until the hills arrived and I pressed on from the back group.

Afternoon brew was by the roadside with the mountains of the Massif Central in the distance. An awning gave us some shade, and a few riders sat on plastic food crates to give their legs a breather. We had a lovely descent before one last climb towards Rochefort-Montagne. (The word Montagne, gave a stark warning that the serious climbing was about to begin!) This is a historic market town dating back to the 11th century, with a handsome 200 year old market hall.

But my mind was on hills, not history. A six mile climb was about to begin: the ascent of the Col de Guéry. Most of the route was in the shade, with glimpses of the stark volcanic peaks of the Puy de Dôme region. Jacqui and I kept passing each other as I rode and then stopped to take photos.

Guide Fernando passed me in the Peak Tours van as I approached the hairpin in the final stages of the climb, before I crossed the Chausse river. (I like the way the French sign each river crossing, no matter how minor.)

At last I was at the top, enjoying the wonderful view back down the mountain – what a contrast with the gentle landscape of this morning. Fernando took a photo of Mick sitting on the fence overlooking the drop, seen below.

We enjoyed the breather at this stunning location with a fabulously clear view. We now had the luxury of a long downhill swoop to Le Mont-Dore, a town best known as a ski resort.

In truth, I was disappointed with Le Mont-Dore. I had dinner with Steve, Maureen, Alison and Willy at a restaurant that specialised in dishes from the Auvergne, such as truffade, a cheese and potato dish. I’d suggested Le Vieille Etaple as another of our group had been recommended it to me, and was obviously popular. It was fine, and the truffade with cold meats was a good choice to fuel me for a big day tomorrow, but Steve made it clear he wasn’t impressed with the food and restaurant. It didn’t matter – I can’t see myself returning to this rather nondescript town despite the magnificent setting.

Read Day 7: Le Mont-Dore to Saint-Flour.

The day’s stats

60.73 miles, 5,318 feet climbing, 5 hrs 16 mins cycling, average speed 11.5 mph.

The day’s highlights video