This post recounts the third day of my Portugal End to End cycle tour with Peak Tours in May 2023. Read day two, Mondim de Basto to the Douro

What was I saying about the Quinta being a tranquil spot? I was rudely awoken at 6am by a train noisily announcing its progress past my chalet!

It wasn’t the only rude awakening. After we set off we were faced with a succession of sharp climbs that set the pattern for a day of climbing. The compensation was the ever-present Douro, as seen above. This was the easiest part of the day’s ride, between the early climbs and the big one from 25 miles onwards.

The river wasn’t the only point of interest. The railway that woke me this morning was our constant companion – this would be a lovely way to travel along the Douro, with small diesel engines hauling rakes of coaches. They probably take bikes too!

It was a shock to come to a larger town, Peso da Régua, where we crossed the Douro on a busy road bridge, before looping back to the river bank. We fancied a coffee, and found a nice restaurant with a terrace overlooking the river, but unfortunately it was closed. Instead, we whiled away a pleasant interlude chatting and watching people walking over the old bridge.

We pressed on to the morning brew stop near the dam across the Douro. This stretch was blighted by a headwind so it was a relief to get the coffee that I missed at Peso da Régua – plus refreshing watermelon. But it was rather overshadowed by the big, long climb that I knew was coming. But what a setting for an ascent: a stunning valley graced with occasional pretty villages.

It was a slow progress to lunch, and we had a very steep climb up to the restaurant at pretty Tabuaço. But it was worth it. We savoured a long break with good food, on this hot, thirsty day.

After lunch, I cycled with Julia and Janet again, which like yesterday helped keep my spirits up when we had yet another long climb. (I really should have paid more attention, and not assumed we’d finished the climb at lunchtime!) We had some lovely descents to recharge our virtual batteries, on a road that often twisted one way then the other.

Just as I was enjoying the easier cycling, we crossed a river and faced one of the steepest ascents of the day, to Riodades. Would it ever end? But it did, sooner than I expected, and we were in sight of the brew van.

Julia saluted guide Gilda as an angel as we drew up. Gilda had thoughtfully put flowers in mugs to welcome her weary flock. Rarely had a fruit juice and cuppa been so welcome.

We had an easy run in to our destination, the old convent at Freixinho, one of the remoter places we stayed at. Today was a tough but rewarding day, and I was glad of another room with a bath to revive me before dinner.

Read Day 4: Freixinho to Belmonte

The day’s stats

51.92 miles, 5,100 feet climbing, 5 hours 18 mins cycling, average speed 9.8mph.

The day’s highlights video