The small town of Mostar in Bosnia-Hercegovina was a symbol of the horror of the wars that marked the collapse of Yugoslavia. Like Sarajevo, Mostar had shown how different cultures and races could live together. But in the years after 1990, that tradition was cruelly destroyed. Thousands had their lives ruined – if not snuffed out – when Serbs, Croats and Muslims went to war.

Mostar was famous for its old bridge over the Neretva river, built by the Turks in the 16th century. In 1993, the bridge was shelled into oblivion by Croatian tanks but the structure has been rebuilt under Unesco’s direction and reopened in 2004.

Elsewhere in the town, the scars of war are far more obvious than in Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia. Residential tower blocks stand ruined, while the shells of once elegant early 20th century buildings in the town centre are guarded by ‘keep out – danger’ signs. The local economy is not strong enough to allow a rapid recovery from the disasters of 1991-95 – another contrast with the Croatian coastal resorts.

On our brief visit, we got the impression that many people still prefer to avoid the painful truth of the war years. The Croatian guide who took us to Mostar described how the Muslims and Croats were allies in the fight against the Serbs in Bosnia-Hercegovina – completely ignoring the Croats’ role in the destruction of Mostar. More innocently, the young Mostar lad who showed us round his town and described the old bridge with such pride failed to mention that it was not the original.

After the tragedy of the 199 0s, it’s hardly surprising that the people of the former Yugoslavia find it difficult to confront reality.