Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 12, Ballater to Inverness

Climb that mountain: heading for the Lecht

This post recounts the 12th day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 11, Kinross to Ballater

I was confused. A familiar figure waved me into a picturesque cafe in the Cairngorm mountains. We’d barely gone 13 miles – didn’t we have the Lecht, one of Britain’s toughest cycling climbs, before our morning brew? We’d done some serious climbing but I was sure I couldn’t have missed the Lecht!

Sheltering from the weather

I hadn’t. Instead, Peak Tours wanted us to stay safe as the weather was worsening by the minute, and they assessed whether it was safe to tackle the five mile ascent. I was cold and wet as I sipped a hot drink, and listened to the verdict from Simon and Julie. Visibility was very poor, with strong sidewinds, so they recommended that they give us and our bikes a lift to the top. Most of us agreed straight away. Much as I’d have liked to tackle the Lecht, I was relieved to have been reprieved! I climbed into one of the vans and Howard drove me and Nigel just beyond the summit.

I’m still alive, jokes Holger!

It wasn’t the start we expected to the day. It was sunny as we left Ballater, heading along the Dee. We were overtaken by a Range Rover with fishing rods attached to the car. We were soon climbing, which was when the weather started to deteriorate quickly. I ditched the jacket as usual, but soon decided that I needed the warmth on the descent. The experience showed how quickly the weather can turn in the mountains. “I’m still alive!” Holger joked with a smile a mile or so before our unexpected coffee stop.

Still more hills…

Ironically, the weather improved as soon as I got back on my bike. The sun was shining, and I warmed up after 10 minutes despite the strong wind. I soon passed through Tomintoul before another stiff climb. It was satisfying to look back at how far we had climbed.

Looking back at how far we’d climbed

I enjoyed our lunch stop at a very quiet hotel in Nethy Bridge. But the next 14 miles were a real slog. Was I tired? I probably was, but looking back on Strava that evening I saw that the route had climbed steadily to Slochd summit at over 1,300 feet above sea level. And we had a vicious headwind at times. From there, it was mostly a continual descent to Inverness. But there were nice moments on the way to the summit, including seeing the old bridge that gave its name to Carrbridge, and the deserted road that was the old A9, superseded by the new road. Perfect for cycling.

Downhill all the way? Nearly!
Tomatin viaduct with new A9 viaduct beyond

I was pleased to stop for a cuppa at the brew stop in Tomatin, near another viaduct on the Highland Railway to Inverness. I knew the last session of the day would be an easy one, and it was a pleasure to cycle with Fiona and Simon and the rest of the Cheshire crew in the sunshine. Finally we saw the Moray Firth and Inverness below us.

Inverness arrival

After quiet lanes, it was a shock to join a huge traffic jam approaching Inverness town centre. But we were soon passing through the car-free high street to our guest house.

The Ness at dusk

That evening a few of us had a pint in the lovely Castle Tavern. On my Land’s End to John O’Groats ride in 2002, I had noticed how some Scottish beers were named after shillings, the pre-decimal equivalent of 5p. Tonight, I had a pint of 80/- (80 shillings). It was a very malty beer, and the only ‘shilling’ beer I saw this year. We chatted to a man who claimed to have done LEJOG in eight days. He was probably telling the truth, but there was just a hint of a tall tale in the way he recounted his adventure…

Day’s stats

67 miles, 3,983 feet of climbing, 5 hrs 32 mins cycling, average speed unknown

Read Day 13, Inverness to The Crask Inn

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 11, Kinross to Ballater

Climbing to Glenshee ski centre. Not your typical UK bike ride!

This post recounts the 11th day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 9, Penrith to Moffat

We could see the landscape changing. Soft hills gave way to mountains in the distance. I felt a mix of excitement and nervousness: we’d be climbing those mountains by bike this afternoon. 

In the morning, the scenery was pleasant but not especially interesting after yesterday. But as always there were moments to remember. As we approached Perth, I noticed a cyclist on a sturdy bike with a tray on the back. On a steep climb on the outskirts of the city, he started outpacing us, which suggested he was a strong cyclist, given we were on light road bikes and had gained fitness from riding over 700 miles in 10 days. He explained that he was cycling to work at a garden centre in the north of Perth.

We crossed the Tay, which reminded me of the famous, ill-fated railway bridge over the river’s estuary. That structure collapsed when a train was crossing during a storm in 1879, shocking Victorian Britain. Our crossing passed without incident…

This means big climbs…

We had the best lunch of the trip so far today at the Wee House of Glenshee: soup, a very generous ploughman’s platter. and a cake that I saved for this evening. The staff were lovely too. Our enjoyment was overshadowed by the knowledge that we’d be tackling the toughest climb of the trip so far straight after the meal: the climb to Glenshee ski centre.

Climbing to Glenshee

I was lulled into a false sense of security initially. I could barely sense a climb: was this to be one of those comfortable ascents like the Devil’s Beef Tub yesterday? But then I saw the road heading skywards in the distance. A little later it was thrilling to inch up the mountain, but once again I found myself struggling to produce enough power. I could have done with a lower bottom gear. My Garmin gave the game away: my heart rate was not going over 140 beats a minute. My heart had more to give – my legs didn’t!

Simon captures me reaching the summit

“You’re still smiling!” I was told as we paused at Glenshee ski centre. “That’s because I’m at the top!” I replied. It was a lovely moment, especially as we could relish the downhill to Braemar.

Cycling past the ski lifts

It was a very odd feeling cycling past the ski centre and the ski lifts. A year ago, we’d visited Whistler in Canada, and had seen mountain bikes on the ski lifts. (The British Columbia resort has become a huge mountain biking centre in the summer.) By contrast, the lifts at Glenshee were still and silent on this August day.

The cafe looked nice – ‘Tea at the Shee’

That downhill was exhilarating if windy, and I enjoyed the brew stop two miles down the mountain. We passed through Braemar, and cycled along the Dee valley, admiring the bridges across the famous river.

Bridge across the Dee

We soon found ourselves at the gates of Balmoral, the Queen’s Scottish retreat. It’s not hard to see how generations of monarchs have relished the tranquility and beauty of this corner of Scotland. It would have been lovely to have had longer to explore Deeside – that pleasure will have to wait for another visit. But we enjoyed a magical moment when a policeman guarding Balmoral took our photo.

The Queen’s policeman takes our photo outside Balmoral’s gates!
This is the photo he took!

Our destination tonight was the Deeside Inn at Ballater. I had a lovely room, and took advantage of a heated towel rail and radiator to wash some cycling clothes. I also enjoyed the delicious shortbread from lunch at the Wee House. It was a smart move saving it for later!

The day’s stats

83 miles, 4,672 feet climbing, 5 hrs 59 mins cycling, 13.9 mph average speed (curious how my average is often higher when there’s more climbing!) 

Read Day 12, Ballater to Inverness

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 10, Moffat to Kinross

Edinburgh Castle and piper

This post recounts the 10th day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 9, Penrith to Moffat

What a wonderful day. Enjoyable cycling and unforgettable experiences, especially cycling through Edinburgh during its famous festival.

Climbing Devil’s Beef Tub

Once again, there was an autumnal chill in the air as we set off from Moffat. But we knew we had the six mile climb of the Devil’s Beef Tub to warm us up. I was looking forward to this as I remembered it as an easy and enjoyable climb from my 2002 end to end. So it proved. The sun was shining and we had impressive hills to frame our views on the ascent. The name Devil’s Beef Tub is a reference to the notorious border reivers who hid stolen cattle here. There is another historical link: the ‘postie stone’, a memorial to the driver and guard of a mail coach who died in a blizzard in 1831 trying to deliver the mail. We had perfect weather today, but our experience on the Lecht near Aviemore two days later showed how treacherous Scottish weather can be even in summer.

Edinburgh here we come!

The ride to Edinburgh from the Beef Tub was a wonderful one – some 12 miles of easy downhill cycling with the bucolic accompaniment of the Tweed to our right, near that lovely river’s source and hills to both sides. We had a nice lunch stop at the Royal Hotel in Penicuik; we could all say the town’s name correctly thanks to Scotsman David! I was happy to while away a pleasant hour, anticipating the pleasure of Edinburgh and the Forth Bridge.

Edinburgh, festival city

There can’t be a better way of visiting Edinburgh during the festival than by bike. (A view confirmed later by colleague Imogen, who had the impossible task of getting a cab in the city later in the month.) We thrilled to the sights and sounds as we threaded Scotland’s capital, freewheeling down the Mound to stop at Princes Street for a view of the castle. There was a piper stationed there – no doubt enjoying rich pickings from people like us, happy to get the statutory bagpipe sound in our videos. (Fiona and Holger danced to the tune, which made a nice feature in my highlights video at the end of this post.)

Through the New Town

We then made our way through Edinburgh’s New Town and onto a railway path towards the Forth road bridge.

We go Forth

Unfortunately the east cycle path overlooking the famous 1890 Forth Bridge was closed, so we were routed onto the west path, overlooking the latest, 2017 Queensferry crossing. (Footnote: the ‘Forth Bridge’ is the railway crossing, built to withstand an enormous storm after the collapse of the original Tay bridge at Dundee in 1879 when a train was crossing.) I was surprised how tranquil the crossing was, compared with the very windy Severn Bridge six days ago.

The Forth Bridge

We got our best view of the railway bridge as we climbed away from the Firth of Forth towards Kinross. It was a hilly ride to our destination, but I enjoyed it, especially the views of Loch Leven. It reminded me of my childhood in Cardiff, where my friend Anthony lived in Leven Close. Many roads around Roath Park Lake in the Welsh capital are named after Welsh, Scottish and Canadian lakes.

On first glance, our destination, the Green Hotel in Kinross was a treat, with its airy corridors and comfortable rooms. I had the biggest room by far of the treat of the trip, with a bath – always my first measure of a good room!

The Green Hotel, Kinross. I didn’t have a bath

But appearances can be deceptive. As the sun streamed through the window, I went to run a bath. But no water came out. I got on with other tasks but when I tried again, there was still no water. I went to the front desk, who said they’d had a problem but everything should be fine shortly. I paid three visits to the reception desk, but the promises of hot water never came true. When water finally started running, it was a horrible brown colour – and still cold.

Chris, one of our party, was kind enough to let me use his bath. At no point did the staff at the hotel apologise to me or find a way for me to have a bath or shower after 80 miles’ cycling. They gave everyone a free drink, a miserly recompense for their incompetence. (There was no hot water in my bath in the morning either.) I will not return to the Green Hotel in Kinross, although I am happy to point out that dinner in the bar was excellent.

Day’s stats

80 miles, 3,898 feet climbing, 6 hours cycling, 13.3 mph average speed

Read about Day 11, Kinross to Ballater

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 9, Penrith to Moffat

Our third country!

This post recounts the ninth day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 8, Conder Green to Penrith

This was a less eventful day, apart from the milestone of crossing into Scotland. There was a distinct chill in the air as we prepared to set off. My revised, less favourable view of my Penrith guest house was confirmed when the owner told me off for leaning my bike against an outside view. As if handlebar tape and a saddle would ruin it!

The cooler weather prompted my only clothing mistake of the tour. I started with a base layer and long sleeve jersey. In the chill of the morning, I wasn’t warm enough – but was too hot with a jacket on! That’s when I wished I’d brought a wind-resistant long sleeve jersey.

On leaving Penrith we went through Newton Rigg college campus – which gave me a flashback from my Coast to Coast ride in 2017, when we did the same in the opposite direction.

It felt good seeing signs for places in Scotland.

We reached the border at lunchtime, taking the obligatory photos by the sign. We had reached our third country! Amusingly, we slipped back over the border for lunch at the Gretna Chase Hotel. After the rain of previous days and the cold start, it felt good to sit outside in the sunshine and enjoy an excellent lunch.

The first hour’s cycling in Scotland was a bit of a slog on the road to Annan. There was an unhelpful headwind and the scenery was nondescript apart from glimpses of the Cumbrian mountains and Solway Firth.

We reached the lovely town of Moffat in good time and gave the bikes a good wash after the rain, mud and muck of the last few days. I really liked Buchan Guest House, despite my small room. The owner invited us to leave clothes we wanted washed in a basket; they were back by the time we got back from dinner.

We had dinner at the Star Hotel, which the Guinness Book of Records confirms is the narrowest hotel in the world, as it’s only 20 feet wide! We had an excellent dinner here. Highly recommended,

Day’s stats

70 miles, 2,930 feet of climbing, 5 hours 9 mins cycling, 13.7 mph average speed

Read Day 10, Moffat to Kinross

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 8, Conder Green to Penrith

In the fells, with M6 and West Coast Main Line to the left

This post recounts the eighth day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 7, Northwich to Conder Green

This was a lovely day. It rained a lot, as low pressure continued to dump lots of rain on Great Britain, but it wasn’t as heavy as yesterday, and the roads were drier.

Water, water…. The Lune near Lancaster

We had many opportunities to see the effects of three days’ rain, especially as the flood plain of the Lune was living up to its name!

The first part of today’s ride took us along an old railway path from Conder Green to Lancaster. I normally have a good sense of direction and geography, but today I was disoriented . Weren’t we going away from Lancaster not towards it? I had a similar feeling later near Tebay, not realising that it was south, not north, of our destination Penrith.

My new friends

There was an animal theme today. A herd of cows took interest in us at the morning brew stop. Later, we found the lane blocked by a gate as a lovely female farm worker let a lorry-load of lambs into a field. She apologised for keeping us waiting; we said it was no problem on a Sunday morning when we were enjoying the lovely Lancashire hill country. We smiled at the registration number on the van, which ended BAA!

BAA!
A rare and thankful sight

Later, I was intrigued to see a this sign for Arkholme with the reference to its being a thankful village. Thankful villages were those that lost no one in the Great War; 59 men from Arkholme went off to war and came back. Nearby Nether Kellet was ‘doubly thankful’ as it lost no one in either of the world wars.

More water

My favourite part of today’s ride was the stretch in the fells with the West Coast Main Line railway, M6 and river Lune to my left. We saw an electric express train heading south, which led me to imagine steam hauled trains traversing these lonely hills, as they did until my early childhood.

Climbing away from Tebay

Lunch was a more meagre affair than normal in a pub that had sixties music (a theme we found in northern pubs) competing with Songs of Praise on TV. We joked that we hadn’t prayed enough for good weather!

We had a big climb our of Tebay straight after lunch, which I was pleased to complete without too much difficulty. The afternoon session was relatively easy, and we were soon in Penrith, our final night south of the border.

At first glance my guesthouse in Penrith was lovely – a solid Victorian house with lovely features. We were told there was a drying room, which was a godsend as I needed to wash some cycling clothes, But this drying room proved to be a false god: it was a cupboard with no heat. Needless to say, nothing dried! It proved surprisingly difficult to dry clothes during this summer trip, as the few heated towel rails were typically unheated. Happily our first guesthouse in Scotland did a wash for us.

Venturing into Penrith for dinner, I could feel a distinct change in the weather. I wore long trousers for the first time in two weeks, a pattern that would continue off the bike for the rest of the trip. You wouldn’t know that it was August!

The day’s stats

62 miles, 4,085 feet climbing, 5 hrs 2 mins cycling, 12.3 mph average

Read Day 9, Penrith to Moffat

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 7, Northwich to Conder Green

That weather forecast wasn’t wrong

This post recounts the seventh day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 6, Clun to Northwich

This was the day I concluded there’s no such thing as waterproof cycling clothing. We got wet. Very wet. So wet that we were handed towels when we arrived at our lunchtime pub stop.

But the first stage of the day;’s cycling from Northwich was dry – and fast. We averaged over 16 mph over the first 20 miles, which was a surprise given we were making our way past the Manchester conurbation. A contrast with my 2002 LEJOG route past it, which was slower and more stop-start. Much of today was urban riding, unlike most of the past six days, in towns that had seen better days. But we went through one gem early on: Great Budworth, a village of timbered cottages similar to those in Pembridge and Weobley two days ago.

The rain started for real – ”organised rain’, in that strange phrase loved by certain TV weather forecasters – as we started the climb onto the moors near Bolton. I was cycling on my own by this stage, and reflected on how the equivalent day on LEJOG in 2002 was also a washout, (We had waves down the road that time and we were flooded out of our campsite, so I should think myself lucky in 2019!) It was a shame that we didn’t get a view as it must be spectacular up here ion a fine day. Despite the rain, I wasn’t cold, and found it strangely satisfying, although I confess that feeling faded towards the end of the afternoon.

Just desserts on a rainy day

As we entered the Rock Inn, Tockholes, we were handed towels to dry off. I chose a seat by the glowing fire, but quickly realised that it wasn’t on! Lunch was just what I needed: a hearty cheese and onion pie followed by jam roly poly. I also ordered a pot of tea to warm up, a tradition that lasted for the rest of the tour.

I had company for the rest of the day, which was nice, We came across a cycle race as we neared Lancaster. Sadly, we didn’t get the promised view of Blackpool Tower but a number of our group couldn’t resist stopping for ice cream at Wallings not far from our destination at Conder Green. By then I was far more interested in finishing the day and getting into dry clothes!

Lovely dinner after a wet day’s ride

Tonight we were in the Mill at Conder Green, the best hotel of our stay, and I was blessed to have a room with a bath. Later, Louise, Paul, Nico, Kevin and I had a wonderful dinner. I went for a curry as a change from a week’s pub grub, and it was delicious. I followed that with the cheese board.

That will do nicely

We were amused by Nico, who was yearning to join the rest of our party in the Stork pub, half a mile away. But the weather was still atrocious. He kept staring out of the window at the driving rain, finally plucking up the courage to venture forth. We stayed put! It would be nice to spend time at the Mill in fine weather.

Day’s stats

74 miles, 3,950 feet climbing, 5 hrs 18 mins cycling, 14.1 mph average speed

Read Day 8, Conder Green to Penrith

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 6, Clun to Northwich

Crossing another Severn bridge, Shrewsbury

This post recounts the sixth day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 5, Monmouth to Clun

It’s not what you want to see before a day’s cycling. As I drew back the curtains in Clun, the rain was bouncing off the pavement. This is going to take some of the fun away from the day’s ride across one of my favourite counties, Shropshire.

Happily, the rain had passed by the time we set off, although the forecast for this afternoon was clear: we’d get wet later. But for now, I enjoyed the views of the Shropshire hills – the Long Mynd and Stiperstones. This was the setting for some of my favourite childhood books, the Lone Pine stories by Malcolm Saville. I doubt many people under 50 have heard of them.

The Severn at Shrewsbury

We loved the exhilarating descent from the hills towards Shrewsbury. I clocked 41mph – probably my fastest ever speed on a bike. We spent a pleasant 10 minutes on the bridge watching the rowers in action and seeing our Cheshire contingent meeting their friends, who were joining them for part of the day’s ride. I reflected on memories of my much-loved Aunty Jean, who came from this lovely town. I smiled as I recalled her answer to my question, “How do you pronounce the name, SHREW-sbury or SHROW-sbury?” Her answer? “A mix of the two: SHREW-OW-sbury!”

Just as we prepared to move on after lunch in Burlton, the rain began. There followed a frustrating session as I couldn’t decide: jacket on, or off? In truth, we only had a few showers, although one was amazingly heavy. We got far wetter from the flooded roads, which were hard to navigate at times.

Clear skies at last: Beeston Castle

One of my memories of the equivalent day on my 2002 LEJOG was seeing Beeston and Peckforton castles on either side of a gap in the hills. It was a little disappointing not to get the same view this time, although we did see the gateway to Beeston, above.

A boat would have been useful…

Our destination tonight was near Northwich, Cheshire. To get there, we experienced that county’s dreadful roads (even when they weren’t under water) and very impatient drivers. We were staying at the Hollybush Inn, a rather unusual place. The staff were kind enough to find some old newspapers (from 2016!) to dry our shoes overnight. I had arranged a massage to ease the aching limbs. It was a revelation how much this helped over the coming week.

Dinner and breakfast at the Hollybush were enormous, which made up for my smallest room of the trip. Tomorrow’s weather forecast is dreadful. Those shoes are likely to need more newspaper!

Day’s stats

82 miles, 3,800 feet of climbing, 5 hrs 55 minutes cycling, 14 mph average speed

Read Day 7, Northwich to Conder Green

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 5, Monmouth to Clun

Clun: a lovely destination on a sunny day

This post recounts the fifth day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 4: Street to Monmouth

This was a shorter and easier day: just 58 miles. But it didn’t feel like it over the first five miles, a constant ascent out of the Wye valley. Just as I remembered from my 2002 ride! This prompted a thought that was confirmed as the days unfolded: I much prefer ‘proper’ hills to ascents that don’t look serious but go on for ever. But the weather was fine, and once we got to the village of St Weonards the riding was more enjoyable. This small place has cannily placed a Land’s End to John O’Groats fingerpost outside its shop. They obviously get lots of people like us stopping to take photos and buying things there!

Pembridge

I was looking forward to our lunch stop at Pembridge, Herefordshire. This village in the Arrow valley, like nearby Weobley, is a gorgeous collection of black and white timbered buildings. We had lunch in Pembridge in 2002 and it proved as lovely this time as I remembered. We sat under the 16th century market hall and took a moment in the sunshine to admire the unusual separate church bell tower. A perfect place to rest on a sunny summer’s day.

Relaxing in Clun

The rest of the day was uneventful, with an easy ride to Clun. I couldn’t help thinking of the words of AE Houseman from A Shropshire Lad:

Clunton and Clunbury,
Clungunford and Clun,
Are the quietest places
Under the sun.

Walking over the ancient bridge up to the castle ruins, I knew exactly what he meant.

Clun castle
Not so quiet tonight: the music man

That said, Clun wasn’t quite so quiet that evening when one of our group, Nigel, was invited to play the ukulele by a group playing in the Sun Inn!

Day’s stats

58 miles, 3,858 feet climbing, 4 hrs 18 minutes cycling, 13.4 mph average speed

Read Day 6, Clun to Northwich

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 4, Street to Monmouth

About to cross Brunel’s masterpiece.

This post recounts the fourth day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 3, Moretonhampstead to Street.

What a fabulous day’s cycling! We crossed the Severn Bridge into Wales, which was an emotional moment for me, born in Cardiff. But there were other magical moments, including passing Wells cathedral, crossing Clifton suspension bridge and having a brew stop in glorious sunshine next to the ruins of Tintern Abbey.

Glastonbury

For once, we avoided big climbs after lunch and brew stops. Instead, the day began with the Somerset levels. This is such a magical landscape, with Glastonbury Tor rising mysteriously high above the levels, and the quirky town of Glastonbury with the whiff of incense hanging in the air as we cycled through on the way to Wells. The inevitable downpour greeted us as we reached England’s smallest city, but magically the shower gave way to sunshine as we reached the beautiful cathedral.

The hill of the day followed – the climb onto the Mendips – which was a long ascent but by today we had got into a pattern for these hills: choose a low gear and take your time, rising from the saddle from time to time to vary things. It didn’t seem long before we were enjoying the long descent to Chew Magna Lake, which was bigger than I remembered it – and a lovely spot for a brew stop!

Clifton suspension bridge

The next stretch towards Bristol was a bit of a slog – a busy road and dull scenery. But the reward was cycling over Clifton suspension bridge, Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s masterpiece, finished after his death. This is an example of how Peak Tours is so good at creating routes with unforgettable experiences. (Cycling through Edinburgh was another.) I was just as impressed by the route to the Severn Bridge, which was surprisingly rural compared with the route we took on my 2002 LEJOG, which went over the M5 Avonmouth bridge footbridge and past various chemical plants.

Over the Severn Bridge to Wales

The Severn Bridge has featured in my life for over 50 years, linking my Cardiff birthplace with homes, family and friends in England. It replaced the old Aust ferry in 1966, but remains the only cycle route over the mighty estuary below Gloucester. It was amazingly windy up there – which made the wind-free Forth crossing in Scotland six days later a surprise!

Croeso i Gymru – welcome to Wales!

I felt emotional as we crossed into Wales and saw the familiar bilingual road signs. Unfortunately, there isn’t a welcome to Wales sign on the cycle path – a missed photo opportunity that the Welsh government should address!

Tintern Abbey – afternoon tea

We had a lovely ride along the Wye valley to Monmouth, fortunately just days after the A466 reopened so avoiding a hilly diversion at St Arvans. The sun was shining at our most scenic brew stop yet at Tintern Abbey – and we had Welsh cakes to celebrate our arrival in Wales.

I couldn’t resist!

It was just a short ride from Tintern to Monmouth, the historic border town, and we crossed the border back into England for a few miles with the beautiful Wye to our side. We were staying in the King’s Arms, an old coaching inn that’s now a Wetherspoons hotel. Our bikes had an equally historic home for the night – the Shire Hall opposite!

The Shire Hall and Charles Rolls

I had a lovely evening in Monmouth catching up with my cousin Wendy and family. There was a poignant aspect to this as on my LEJOG stay in the town in 2002 I had dinner with my father and late mother. Happy memories.

Day’s stats

65 miles, 3,865 feet climbing, 12.7 mph average.

Read Day 5 – Monmouth to Clun

Land’s End to John O’Groats – Day 3, Moretonhampstead to Street

Gone to lunch, Drewe Arms, Broadhembury, Devon

This post recounts the third day of my 14 day LEJOG19 adventure, in August 2019. For tips based on my experience, please go to my blogpost How to ride Land’s End to John O’Groats. Read Day 2: Fowey to Moretonhampstead

As if we hadn’t climbed enough hills in the previous two days, we faced a brutal truth from the word go today: a steep climb out of Moretonhampstead. And it was raining, so the combination of a warm day, a stiff climb and a rain jacket had me overheating straight away. I quickly decided I’d ditch the jacket (in my jersey pocket) and cool down. There folllowed a pretty if switchback ride to Exeter, and several grinding long ascents on a road with temporary traffic lights.

We passed quickly through Exeter (a contrast to Plymouth yesterday) although we didn’t see anything of the city other than the modern Exe bridges. The good news was that we’d done most of the day’s climbing other than a stonker of a climb after lunch at the picture-postcard thatched village of Broadhembury near Honiton. The Drewe Arms is as pretty as the rest of the village, and we enjoyed the stop.

We couldn’t delay that climb any longer, and the moment of truth came as the skies opened at the start of a very wet afternoon. It was a largely level ride after Stafford Hill although the pleasure at easy cycling was tempered by being bombarded by water from all directions. We had a very tricky descent on a gravelly, narrow lane just before the afternoon brew stop. The Peak Tours team had added an awning to keep us and the snacks dry as the rain returned. Happily, the sun returned just as we approached our destination, Street, and we took the chance to clean and fettle the bikes ready for tomorrow’s stage.

We stayed at Mullions hotel in Street, and I was delighted to get an ensuite bath for the third night in a row. I enjoyed a walk along Street’s main, er, street, and noted the buildings carrying the name of the Clark family, whose success in the shoe trade made Street’s name. As has already become the routine for LEJOG19, I edited the highlights video, which was shorter today because of the weather.

Day’s stats

70 miles, 5 hrs 8 mins riding, 3,900 feet climbing, average speed unknown because of Garmin issues

Read Day 4, Street to Monmouth